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Rwanda’s Charming Twin Lakes by Motorcycle

Updated: Aug 23, 2021

Pete and Andrew recently emailed to tell us about a three-day trip they enjoyed starting in Kigali and then out to the Twin Lake region in Rwanda. Both these bikers are still waiting for the Land Borders to open up. Rwanda is a small East African Country by comparison to other African Nations, but there are endless places to explore. This is especially true if your mode of conveyance is a motorbike. In this case we are talking about two very capable two-wheelers. Pete rides a newer KTM 390 Duke, and Andrew’s mount is a slightly older KTM 790 Adventure R. These bikes are not really matched in features or capabilities, but these Guys being old friends, had no trouble slowing down or speeding up to keep their travels on pace. Rwanda’s Regional and National Roads are paved and well-maintained for the most part. The undeveloped dirt roads are, of course, an attraction for bikers with the right equipment and tires. Both Bikers carry minimal kit and supplies including small tents. Finding a place to camp in the Capital city of Kigali is near impossible. The trip out to the Northern Province was an easy choice to make if only for the opportunity to escape the big city, and the stifling traffic. Even for the Locals, driving in Kigali is not easy and requires vigilance. The traffic is a busy combination of cars, bakkies, busses, large trucks and zillions of taxi motorcycles. The red taxi motorcycles make driving in Kigali an exercise in watchfulness. These Moto-taxi operators are not real bikers by any measure and are prone to riding methods that would not be tolerated in many other parts of the world. After crawling through Nyabugogo Pete and Andrew could breathe freely once they turned onto the RN4 heading up the mountain. The heavy city traffic recedes into more open roads with fewer vehicles and pedestrians. Climbing up the mountain is more of a chore for the cars and trucks that often get stuck behind slow-moving cargo carriers and tankers. For the motorcycles these slow-moving behemoths are easily passed. Here is their story.

Rwanda’s Cool Mountain Air

Both Pete and I had traveled this route once before, but at the time we were trying to out-run a patch of bad weather and rainy conditions as we traveled into Kigali. On this trip we enjoyed sunny weather and cool mountain breezes as well as the curvy mountain roads. We could maintain the legal speed limit and still relish banking our bikes on the RN4. The higher the elevations, the cooler the air became. These conditions were ideal for bikers that are well layered with riding pants and jackets. Once we turned onto the RN4 by the Engen Gas station it would be another eighty-four kilometers to the area where we would be exploring. The cultivated hillsides and mountains in the distance created a moving mosaic of wonderful scenery. I cannot over-state how clean and invigorating the Rwanda mountain air is. And the people in the rural areas carried themselves with purpose but were more prone to friendliness with a wave and a smile as we sped by.

Rubavu Coffee and Bus Stop

Our departure out of Kigali was after a small breakfast. By the time we rolled down the mountain past Nyundo to Rubavu, taking a rest stop was a natural decision. We noticed a regional bus off-loading passengers across from a large gas station. We pulled off the road slightly ahead of where the bus had stopped. This was a moderately sized commercial complex with a few bakeries and a coffee kiosk. The Cappuccino and croissants were top shelf! We sat on our parked bikes savoring the hot coffee and the street scene as bus passengers and locals mingled. Pete befriended a young Israeli couple on an old Kawasaki who were also out on the road for a good ride. Some of the local boys gathered around our motorbikes with admiring smiles chatting in their native language. It would be safe to say that they approved of the KTM machinery. After a rest stop that lasted about twenty-five minutes, we mounted up and sped off down the road towards Musanze.

the majestic Lake Ruhondo, Rwanda
The Shores of Lake Ruhondo

Musanze, Rwanda

We entered to the city limits of the busy city of Musanze slightly after 11:00 AM. Musanze is a moderately large city but it has a more subdued and slower moving character than Kigali. It is a pleasant and safe destination for many visitors that are on gorilla trekking safaris. We stopped in Musanze just long enough to buy snacks and bagged lunches. We continued our GPS routing that would deliver us to the famous Twin Lakes area of Rwanda. We motored along roads that had pedestrian traffic, so we reduced our speed accordingly and kept an eye out for children. The children in Rwanda are happy and beautiful little beings but they are disposed to all kinds of mischief and unexpected movements. They also appear to exhibit little fear of motorized traffic. They often ignore the cars and trucks speeding by them just like their adult brethren. Operating a motorized vehicle anywhere in the world demands caution and common sense, but these requirements are especially important in Africa. You do not want to have an accident of any magnitude and you especially do not want to hurt people. Even if the Locals appear indifferent to the sometimes-crowded roads, you as a visitor must accept the extreme disadvantage as a Foreigner in the sad event of an accident. Besides the language gap and unknown legal landscape, dealing with Police and an excited crowd on the road will not be a pleasant occasion.

Off Road in Rwanda

Right after passing the town of Muhoza we veered off the main road onto an unpaved minor road that was fun to negotiate. The elevations in that area were slightly higher than the lakes which we could see in the distance. We managed to find single track paths that took through the bush and past small farm holdings. Although many areas on these trails were muddy with small rain puddles, we did manage to find a grassy clearing about five kilometers from the closest Lake. We stopped our bikes and ate lunch while enjoying the breeze off the Lake and the ticking noises coming from our cooling engines. There were a variety of trees and cultivated land around us. The banana trees, avocado trees and mango trees were the easiest to identify. In Rwanda there are food crops growing everywhere. Soil conditions and the agrarian skills of the local farmers make for good food security. At least this is my impression. The knowledge, skill and hard work needed to feed millions of people are beyond the imagination of the average First World visitor to this lush and fertile Country. No, food does not come from the Supermarket. Food comes from farms both large and small. After lunch and rechecking our bearings, we picked up the pace a bit and headed down the hillside in the direction of the lake.

Farmer's House

The Twin Lakes – Majesty of Rwanda

Lakes Ruhondo and Burera are the